Camino Portuguese, Porto to Santiago
After walking 3 previous Caminos we fancied walking another in order celebrate the ten years since we walked our first one-The Camino Frances.
After some debate we decided to walk for 12 days from Porto to Santiago. We had thought of walking from Lisbon, but due to time restraints, and after watching people's videos, we decided on the walk from Porto. The next decision was whether to walk the coastal or inland route.
The only accommodation we had booked in advance was in Porto and Santiago. We flew direct from our home in Manchester to Porto. We had not visited Porto before, so we spent 1 and a half days looking round-see later.
Day 1- Porto to Matosinhos
We left Porto Cathedral at 1.45pm, by the sign saying 248km to Santiago. We had visited the very interesting Cathedral the previous day, picking up our credential cards to be stamped along the way, enabling us to obtain our Compostela on arrival in Santiago. Earlier we had left our bags at Porto Bike Rental, so we collected them on the way. We followed the Senda littoral along the River Douro, towards the sea. It was a very pretty walk, after 4 miles, 1 Hour 45 minutes we arrived at the beautiful beach at Foz do Douro.
Here there are 2 lighthouses situated on a promontory, we also crossed the road to visit an interesting fort. Continuing northwards up the coast, we visited a 2nd fort with great views up and down the coast (3 hours, 6.8 miles, 79m). After visiting the tourist shop in Matosinhos, we checked into as it was 5.30pm we booked this hotel very quickly on bookings. In hindsight it was the worst accommodation of the trip, but breakfast was nice. We visited the local Lidl store, eating our dinner on the beach. A lovely end to a fabulous day.
Ascent 335 feet (102m)
Descent 417 feet (127m)
Time Taken 4.15 hours
Average Pace 29.5 min/mile
Steps 18,848
Miles 8.5 Km 13.7
Day 2 - Matosinhos to Vila do Condo
After a nice breakfast at the hotel, we left at 7.45am. Walking through the town, going over the bridge, turning left to meet the coast once more. The walk was a mixture of boardwalks, tracks, and paths. The beach was sand and rocks. After 5 miles there is an obelisk for the Liberal wars of 1832.
Reaching the beautiful fishing cottages of Angeiras with piles of lobster pots, we visited the fish market with free clean toilets. We went to Veiga café, (7.8 miles, 3 hours 15mins, 61m ascent), having 2 (toast with cheese and ham), and 2 coffees for €8.80. Further on there is an interesting memorial to a Lancaster bomber that landed here in September 1943, on its way to Gibraltar. The entire crew survived, being helped by the local fisherman. We called into Mindelo visiting another nice cafe, (130m ascent, 11.5 miles, 5.30 hours).
Reaching beautiful Vila do Condo at 3pm, we checked into the lovely Hotel Naval overlooking the water. Later we visited the Naval Museum, and its associated ships, some churches, the cathedral, and an informative tourist information shop. We also spent some time visiting the aqueduct, and walking up to the beautiful monastery-unfortunately for us this is now a hotel, and we could not enter. We ate a delicious pilgrim’s meal at Saura Cool restaurant, before visiting the laundrette and Lidl store near our hotel.
Ascent 541 feet (165m)
Descent 751 feet (229m)
Total time 7 hours 10mins
Average Pace 28 min/mile
Miles 15, Km 24
Steps 34,104
Day 3 - Vila do Condo to Barcelos
At this point in order to visit inland Portugal, we decided to leave the coastal route. The cut through route is described in our guide books, but not on the Gronze app. We left our hotel at 7.10am, passing the river through the town joining the Lap Road after 1.5 miles, at 7.40am. At 8.30am we crossed the Touguinha roman bridge, sitting on the bench to eat our breakfast, overlooking the pretty water. (3.2 miles, 31m ascent).
We were happy to join the central path at 9.45am (2.5 hours, 6.3 miles, 116m ascent). We would not recommend this route, as it was not as quiet as we expected. We were following narrow roads, through built up areas, with some fast traffic! But the cut through took less time than described. We were happy to arrive at Cafe Barbaroa in Arcos, with very friendly staff, for tostada Mixta’s and coffee.
We arrived at the church at Pedro de Rates (13 miles, 317m ascent, 5.40 hours). Excitingly there was a sign saying 200km to Santiago. Later, we checked into our Hotel- Top'otel Barcelos, with friendly staff, and a lovely room which overlooked the bridge and the castle. We ate a pilgrim’s dinner at Cantinho do Peregrino nearby for €10.
Ascent 1,355 feet (413m)
Descent 1,607 feet (490m)
Total time 8.5 hours
Average Pace min/mile 25
Steps 41,364
Miles 18.8, 30 KM
Day 4 - Barcelos to Leonchic Hotel, near Tamil
From Barcelos we considered taking a day trip to Braga-which is sometimes described as the Rome of Portugal. But as it was a Saturday there was less public transport available than during the week, so we decided against it. It is a shame that the walk does not go through Braga. Instead, we decided to visit Barcelos, instead of rushing through it. We visited the friendly tourist information office, museum of pottery, tower, church and an archaeological museum. After collecting the bags from our hotel, we ate at Cafe Historically, called into a supermarket, and left town at 12.45pm.
We had decided on a short walking day, so after 7 miles, 195m ascent, at 3.30pm we arrived at Leonchic hotel, near Tamal. We think it is an old country house that has been recently renovated. We were the only people staying there, eating a delicious chicken dinner, cooked by the very friendly owner at 6.30pm, with a free dessert being an added bonus, €15.
Ascent 640 feet (195m)
Descent 312 feet (95m)
Total time 2 hours 50 minutes
Steps 14,400
Miles 6.2, 10 Km
Day 5 - Leonchic Hotel to Ponte de Lima
We ate an amazing breakfast in our hotel at 8am, leaving at 8.40am, into the beautiful sunlit countryside. We would recommend staying at Leonchic hotel, and it was a shame no one else was there.
We passed Tamal church, with free toilets, the Albergue, new houses, and vineyards. We crossed a pretty bridge built in 1135, (75m ascent, 1 hour 20 mins, 3.5 miles). We went to Casinha Roulette cafe for a coffee and tuna sandwich, (7.5 miles, 3 hours 30 mins, 190m ascent) This is actually situated in the owner’s garden, with a toilet in garage. As it was a Sunday this was the last open cafe of the day, so we were very happy not to miss it. We left at 12.30pm, passing through pretty countryside and passing fairly large houses. At 3pm we came to an honesty box outside someone’s house and bought bananas and cold water.
Arriving alongside the river in the very beautiful Ponte de Lima at 4pm, we walked through the old town. Then we checked into Casa da Travessa which has a shared laundry area, with a free washing machine, a kitchen and a very friendly owner. Ponte de Lima is a beautiful old town with a Roman/Medieval bridge. We ate a lovely Pilgrims meal at Solar da Picota, surrounded by other pilgrims. We were pleased that we had spilt the stage from Barcelos to here, as it gave us the opportunity to look round this beautiful town at leisure.
As it was a Sunday there were no shops or cafes open en-route so plan accordingly. We were so lucky to find the cafe bar roulette open, in someone’s back garden. Don't miss it!!
Ascent 1,250 feet (381m)
Descent 1,560 feet (476m)
Total time 7 hours 30minutes
Average Pace 27 min/mile
Steps 37,450
Miles 16.6 Km 26.7
Day 6 - Ponte De Lima, via Rubiaes to Quinta de Real near Fontoura
We ate breakfast in cafe Panilima Centro de Ponte de Lima next door to our room.
Leaving at 8am we walked through the beautiful town and over the bridge. We took our time to study the ancient bridge and the fortnightly Monday morning market which was just being set up, apparently Portugal’s oldest.
After walking along pretty cobbled paths through lots of forests, we reached the high point at 530m, alto da Portela Grande de labruja, after 3 hours 45 mins, 8.5 miles. It was a very warm day, as we called into Bar Roulette at 12.30pm (10.3 miles, 4 hours 30mins, 548m ascent). We called into Jamie store at 2pm, which has a bar, some provisions and a toilet, (6 hours, 598m 12.7 miles). At 3pm we called into Café Castro, situated on the crossroads by a pretty church. (717m ascent, 6 hours 50mins, 14.7 miles).
We arrived at our room in Quinta de real, near Fontoura at 4.30pm, (735 m, 8 hours, 16.5 miles). This is a lovely place, with 6 rooms, a private swimming pool and fabulous views north over the vineyards to the hills of Spain. The friendly owner very kindly offered to drive us to a nearby restaurant, but had eaten along the way, and had food with us. There was only us staying so we spent a few happy hours by the pool, with an amazing sunset.
Today’s stage is actually to Rubiales, but we decided to walk further to enable us to spend more time in Valenca and Tui the following day. We were very pleased that we did.
Ascent 2,410 feet (735m)
Descent 2,250 feet (687m)
Total time 8 hours
Average Pace 29 min/mile
Steps 39,010
Miles 16.5, Km 26.5.
Day 7 - Quinta de Real, Fontoura to Tui
After a delicious breakfast at 8am served by the owner, we left at 8.40am, walking down through the vines, to re-join the Camino. After 2.5 miles of walking along cobbled paths, we came across a food hut selling many products, owned by a very friendly lady from Belarus. We bought a pasty and cold water.
Be careful if wishing to visit Valenca, the actual Camino path and Gronze route don’t go through the town, swinging to the east instead. Leaving the signed Camino, we walked past the old walls and through the central gate at 11am, (160m ascent, 2 hours 30mins, 6.2 miles). We visited a couple of museums, and churches, before having lunch at a cafe in the main square. It quickly filled up with fellow walkers. We thought Valenca was a beautiful old town, which was well worth a couple of hours visit.
Continuing through the old gates we crossed the bridge over the River Minho to arrive in Spain, (4 hours 45 mins, 8 miles,188m). To have the best view of Tui, walk along the right-hand side of bridge, then continue for 15 minutes into Tui. Don’t forget to change the time on entering Spain.
We stayed in a fabulous apartment, Casa Trabancas, very near the cathedral, and a large supermarket. The cathedral is very pretty, with some towers to climb, don’t miss the best view from the back of the gardens, over the river to Valenca and the mountains beyond.
We went for a lovely Pilgrim meal, at a restaurant very near to the Cathedral, €13, with a choice of salad, spaghetti bolognaise and pizza. There are signs saying 114.5km to Santiago-getting nearer.
Ascent 725 feet (221m)
Descent 702 feet (214m)
Total time 5 hours 20 minutes
Average Pace 35 min/mile
Steps 21,538
Miles 9.12 Km 14.6
Day 8 - Tui to Redondela
We left at 7.40am, but due to the hours’ time difference with Portugal, it was pitch black. We were glad we had found the path the previous evening. The cafes were shut, except for the Albergue, which was very busy. We stopped at the beautiful Roman bridge on the outskirts of town, with a full moon shining brightly over a statue of a pilgrim. We ate a croissant on a bench, while waiting for a short time for the sunrise. We couldn't believe how many walkers were out; we presumed that they had joined the camino at Tui in order to walk the last 100km to Santiago. Where their certificate can be awarded.
We arrived at Ponte das Febres, a bridge with a bagpiper playing at 9am, (3.6 miles, 75m ascent, 1 hour 20 mins). Shortly afterwards we stopped at Bar Ponte das Febres, Ribadelouro, for our usual coffee and toast, for €9, (94m ascent, 1 hour 40 mins, 4.3 miles), leaving at 9.40am. Once through Ribadelouro the path splits either going through the countryside or through a large industrial estate, (129m ascent, 2 hours 30mins, 5.5 miles). We chose the more-direct well-signed path through the industrial estate, as we still had a long way to go. The other walkers went the other way.
Arriving in the old town of O Porrino, we went to La Cueva Cafe, at 11.45am, (10.2 miles, 182m ascent, 4 hours 10mins). Leaving at 12.15pm, we walked over the motorway passing through the countryside once more. In the beautiful village of Mos we stopped for drinks in the Albergue, (14.2 miles, 6 hours 30mins, 312m ascent). The highest point of the day is at Capele (3.15pm, 469m ascent, 7 hours 45minutes, 16.5 miles), nearby is a monument to the battered woman. Further through the forest is a picnic bench, with a view to Rondendela and the sea (4pm. 477m, 8.5 hours, 18 miles). We arrived at our very nice accommodation of A Casa Do Peregrino in Redondela at about 5pm.
We bought dinner from the nearby supermarket, and ate it in our lovely big apartment.
We were happy to be back in Spain, we could order our favourite tomatoes on toast for breakfast, which we prefer to the Portuguese breakfast of tostada mixta. Also, we can speak and understand some Spanish. Our Portuguese being very poor.
Ascent 1620 feet (494m)
Descent 1686 feet (514m)
Total time 9 hours 45 minutes
Average Pace 28 min/mile
Steps 50,395
Miles 20.6, Km 33
Day 9 - Redondela to Pontevedra
We left at 7.50am, again with lots of walkers around. Many of whom were queuing in a cafe opposite the Albergue. On the outskirts of town, we called in to the empty Cafe bar Ruada, on the outskirts of town, leaving at 8.30am. After 2 miles there is a lovely view back to the bridge, surrounded by large houses and the ocean.
Walking along more cobbled paths through the forest, we arrived in the town of Arcade, going to the Local Social Arcade Cafe, (5.3 miles, 2 hours 30 minutes, 220m ascent). We left town at 11am, over the beautiful old bridge, with a plaque about the battle of Puente Sampaio in1809 in the Peninsular wars. Upwards through more forest, with a wayside cafe, sellers and stamps. We went to Casa Farmin bar 50m off the track for omelette, bread and 2 coffees €6, with a little shop too. (454m, 5 hours, 10.1 miles). Later near Rio Tomeza the path splits, we took the left turn, along the very pretty, obvious path alongside a stream, before arriving back at the main road at 2.10pm. (12.6 miles, 466m, 6 hours 10 mins).
Pontevedra is one of the largest towns on the route, with many interesting buildings, churches and museums. Walking tours are possible here too. We checked into Hotel Restaurant Ruas at 2.45pm.
We visited the free Museum, which is very large and interesting, with helpful staff.
Santa Maria church €1 each to go up the tower with the 3 Galician bells, which happened to strike when we were there!!!, and the round pilgrim tower €1 each.
We ate dinner at Rincon Peregrino restaurant, dinner was salad, pork chops, bread, beer, and wine, again good value at €30.
Ascent 1584 feet (483m)
Descent 1584 feet (483m)
Total time 6 hours 50 minutes
Average Pace 29 min/mile
Miles 14, 22.45 Km
Steps 33,020
Day 10 - Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Leaving at 8am, not many cafes were open, but we went to the exceptional cafe Bio. Re-visiting the old town, before crossing the bridge over the River Lerez. After 2 miles, on the left is the intersection with the spiritual way, which seems a fairly popular walk. Visiting one of the few open churches in Santa Maria. It was a pretty day’s walking through many vineyards, even though at times the path was very busy with pilgrims. We stopped at Casa Pulpo for the obligatory coffee and toast, (5.5 miles, 2 hours 10 mins, 174m).
Later going to Cafe bar oasis at 12.40pm (225m ascent, 4 hours, 9.6 miles).
Arriving in Caldas de Reis, at yet another lovely apartment- Habitacion privada en el Mismo Camino de Santiago, well positioned too.
Caldas de reis is a lovely old town, again with a very friendly tourist centre. We visited the church, 2 old bridges, hot springs, and a large supermarket. We ate a delicious 3-course pilgrims’ dinner at O Encontro, which had been advertised along the path, €13.50.
Ascent 974 feet (297m)
Descent 971 feet (296m)
Total time 6 hours 20 minutes
Average Pace 27 min/mile
Steps 31,494
Miles 14, Km 22.5
Day 11 - Caldas de Reis to Padron
We called into the surprisingly empty nearby Cafe Bar Caldas, leaving at 8.15am. After an hour we reached Carracedo, with its extremely beautiful church, with great views all around. (124m, 3.2 miles). Later at 11am visiting Cafe Beuno Camino, with toast and omelette (219m ascent, 2 hours 30mins, 7 miles).
As it was a relatively short day, we took the Herbon detour to the Monastery, as described in the Cicerone guide book. It was a great decision along very quiet roads, alongside the river, (12.45pm, 268m ascent, 10 miles, 4 hours 15 mins). We followed the red arrows, 30 minutes later we arrived at a bridge. We sat on the bank of the River Ulla, near a weir. The river even though it is quite far from the sea, did seem to be tidal. We enjoyed our lunch, watching people on the other side, jumping and swimming in the river. We crossed the bridge to arrive at the Herbon Monastery and Albergue. This was founded in the 14th century, and later the monks introduced Padron peppers from the Americas, fields of which can be seen.
At the Monastery there are 30 beds, mass is taken, and a communal dinner and breakfast served. It cannot be booked in advance, but when we arrived at 1.15pm there was a line of 15 rucksacks outside. We presumed their owners had gone swimming in the river. A very friendly man allowed us to visit the beautiful large church, and told us the history of it in English. In hindsight it would have been a fascinating place to stay, and would fit in with the Camino/pilgrim feel.
We arrived at Apartamento Da Avoa Teresa in Padron at 3.15pm, quite early-even after our leisurely day. We went to the laundrette, and Euroski supermarket, before walking round the town, using the map that we had picked up in the tourist office the previous day. It is another beautiful town; we crossed the river to a sadly closed monastery. We walked up many steps at the back of the monastery to a cross and statue of St James, a picture of which is on the cover of John Brierley’s book.
Padron is famous for the peppers 450,000 tons are apparently grown each year. Unfortunately, we could not find a restaurant that sold any! We went for a Mexican instead in a quirky restaurant-A Catrina Café Bar Padron- overlooking the river.
Ascent 1246 feet (380m)
Descent 1312 feet (400m)
Total time 7 hours
verage Pace 28.5 min/mile
Steps 33,006
Miles 14.5, Km 23
Day 12 - Padron to Santiago
The last day of a trip is always exciting, and this was no different. Leaving Padron at 7.35am, passing a couple of large churches, with sunrise at 8.15am, it was a beautiful morning. At 8.50am we stopped for breakfast at Cafe bar Rianxeira (3.7 miles, 73 ascent, 1-hour 15mins) 8.50am. Later stopping at the very authentic Tenda de Rosa, which had a small collection of historical objects within, (243m, 3 hours 15mins, 8.2 miles).
On the approach to Santiago, we continued over the motorway up the main road. Behind Magdalena church, just off the track, is the first view of the cathedral from the Portuguese way. On the outskirts of Santiago, we ate lunch in Nova Lilly Cafe bar. 1.45pm (498m, 6 hours 10 mins, 14.8 miles). Having been to Santiago before, we know that the city is extremally busy, with no restaurants in the main square. We also bought some alcohol to celebrate our walk with in the main square.
Once in the city we were amazed by the crowds, maybe there were a couple of cruise ships docking nearby too. We sat in the main square for a few hours, relaxing and watching the crowds arrive. Later we collected our certificates from the Pilgrims office. Remember to collect at least two stamps a day for the last 100km, to prove that you have walked. 2,500 people had already collected certificates on that day alone. Stamps can be collected in cafes, accommodation (but not our apartments), and churches, but most of these we found to be shut. So it wasn’t always easy to find them.
We stayed at Hostal O Patron, near the Pilgrims Office. After walking round the town, we ate our final pilgrim’s meal at Canadu restaurant opposite our hotel.
Ascent 1768 feet (539m)
Descent 941 feet (287m)
Total time 7 hours 20 minutes
Average Pace 27 min/mile
Steps 37,196
Miles 16.4, Km 26
Accommodation
Porto, Guestready mercadores 150
Matosinhos, Hotel Rei
Vila do Condo, Naval Guest House and Bistro
Barcelos, Top ‘Otel
Tamel, Leonchic guest house
Ponte de Lima, Casa da Traversa
Quinta de Real, near Fontoura
Tui, Casa Das Trabancas
Redondela,A Casa Do Peregrino
Pontevedra, Hotel Restaurant Ruas
Caldas de Reis, Habitacion privada en el Mismo Camino de Santiago
Padron, Apartamento Da Avoa Teresa
Santiago, Hostal O Patron
All of our accommodation was booked on Bookings.com, except for Matosinhos, where we called in, having checked the price online first.
Books/Websites used
The Camino Portugues, Kat Davis, Cicerone press
Camino Portugues, John Brierley, Camino Guide
Garmin connect- app that records the walks in conjunction with our Garmin watches
Gronze.com
Our Porto trip
We flew on a full flight from Manchester to Porto. Before, catching the subway to Trinidad, we bought a ticket from the machine, and validated it. Alighting at Trinidad we had a lovely walk through the city to our beautiful apartment Guest ready Mercadores, near the river. We watched the sunset, then had dinner in a restaurant by our apartment.
The next morning, we went on a fascinating Guru walking tour led by Adrian, which we had booked on-line in advance. We then visited the Cathedral and bishop’s palace €6, very good value. We had lunch in the café in the palace. We visited the nearby market, and station with tiles, before walking over the bridge to the Taylors port tour. We had booked this very interesting tour in advance, €25.00 each, including an audio tour, and 3 tasting ports. We watched the sunset from the park by the top level of the bridge, with 100’s of people and the band playing. It was very atmospheric.
The following day we visited Carmen Church which is free before 9.30am. Then went to the excellent Military Museum, before walking back to the Cathedral to begin our walk. Porto is a fascinating and beautiful city, with lots to see and do.
Santiago
This was our 4th camino into Santiago. The next day we walked round the town, leaving our luggage for a few hours at the Post Office. The queues for the Cathedral were immense, so much so we could not visit. Later we caught the bus to the airport, and caught a plane back to England.
Overall, we always enjoy a walk, and are very lucky to be able to walk so far. However, we didn’t enjoy this trip as much as some. We found that some of the scenery was not that interesting, and the path far too crowded, and most churches closed. However, we were blessed with great weather, lovely accommodation, and visited some lovely towns and villages.
https://hikingwithdaveandbarbara.com/norte.html
See the end of this video; to see the activities available in Santiago, our highlight is a roof top tour of the Cathedral.
You can also see our advice and kit list at the end of other walks on our website.